German reds: the best-kept secret in the wine world

Last week I argued that Germany has got it right in a number of ways, and nowhere is this more obvious than in its red wines.

If you are a fan of pinot noir and looking askance at the prices being asked for most red Burgundy, Germany, as the second largest grower of Spätburgunder, aka pinot noir, in the world offers a viable alternative. These are not all new plantings, as pinot has been grown here for centuries. But aided by a combination of global warming, improved viticulture and good winemaking, the quality of German pinot noir is higher than it has ever been.

The top wines will set you back €40-€80, but this looks reasonable compared with their counterparts in France and the US. At about €20 a bottle, German Spätburgunder offers very good value for money. As well as the wines listed below you could enjoy the Becker Pinot Noir (€22.95, Grapevine, Dalkey) and Wolf Pinot Noir (€18.50 JNwine.com, Pete’s Provisions, D5) and the Albert Glas pinots (€15 and €20 from SuperValu). While the Ahr region probably has the highest reputation for this difficult grape, nowadays wines from many other regions are every bit as good.

Pinot Noir is generally silky smooth with elegant fruits and light tannins. It is best served cool or on summer days chilled. It goes well with a wide range of foods from salmon and tuna to both red and white meats. Vegetarians should try it with mushrooms or butternut squash.

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Pinot Noir Rosé 2019 Kalkstein, Pfalz, Reh Kendermann

12%, €9.20 down from €11.20

A pale delicate rosé with floral notes, rosehips and redcurrants. Well chilled on the patio or with salmon.

From Dunnes Stoores

Geil Pinot Noir 2021, Rheinhessen

13.5%, €21-23

A perennial favourite offering smooth, succulent pure forest fruits and a soft, rounded finish. By itself with salmon, tuna, duck, pork or a mushroom risotto.

From DSIX: Greenman Wines, D6W; Pinto, D9; Deveneys, D14; Whelehans, Loughlinstown; Blackrock Cellar; Baggot Street Wines; The Wine Pair D8; Redmonds, D6; Mitchells, Sandycove & ifsc; 64Wine, Glasthule; Higgins, D14; Ely, Maynooth; Mortons, D6; Sweeney’s, D3; Barnhill Stores, Dalkey

Whelehans Pfeffingen Spätburgunder 2018, Pfalz

13.5%, €25

Silky smooth ripe cherry fruits, just enough acidity, and a whisper of sous-bois. Drink solo, with mushroom dishes or roast pork.

From Whelehan’s, Loughlinstown

Dautel Spätburgunder Sonnenberg 1G 2018

13%, €40-42

Smooth and harmonious with rippling ripe red cherries and raspberries with a touch of spice. Captivating wine and worth every last cent.

From Blackrock Cellars, Avoca