Savouring these Spanish steps

THE TRAVEL BROCHURE gives five reasons to undertake the Santiago pilgrim route. Of most interest to this column is the third, “to enjoy extraordinary food and wine”. I have never walked the full Camino de Santiago across the north of Spain, but I have visited a number of the regions it passes through, and they offer some of the finest food and wine available in Spain. I have been tempted to try the “Chanel route” suggested to me by a tourist guide in Galicia, which involves walking hard each morning to arrive at a fine hotel, eat a large mid-afternoon lunch Spanish-style, before relaxing for the remainder of the day. Not what the religious authorities had in mind for a pilgrimage, but it does sound very good.

The Camino de Santiago is a historic pilgrimage route finishing in the very picturesque town of Santiago de Compostela, where the tomb of St James the apostle lies in the magnificent cathedral. Attending Mass there, with some spectacular bell-ringing performed by monks, is a must. There are many routes to the town, including the French Road, which crosses northern Spain, going through a number of wine regions. One imagines that many a pilgrim may have slaked their thirst. A few bodegas still have a wine fountain offering free wine to pilgrims. Tomorrow, July 25th, is St James’s Day, so to celebrate we will take two weeks to look at the wine regions through which pilgrims pass, starting with the white wines.

The Basque country lies on the Northern Route that runs along the north coast of Spain. The most southern province lies in Rioja, the Rioja Alavesa, but to the far north, along the rugged, often spectacular coastline, small parcels of vines cling to the slopes, producing wines made using grape varieties unheard of elsewhere. The most popular is the Hondarribi Zuri. There are three separate areas, each a Chacolí (or in Basque, Txakoli), but all make fairly light fresh wines, not unlike those of Galicia, but usually lighter. They can be delicious and refreshing served chilled, alongside some of the famous Basque seafood.

Further west, at the end of the trail, we are familiar with the wines of Rías Baixas in this country. Here, the Albariño grape produces some lovely light wines, refreshing with soft juicy pear fruits. Locally they are seen as the perfect partner for fish, and shellfish in particular, which the Gallegos feast upon.

A little further inland, but still in Galicia, are the lesser-known areas of Valdeorras, Monterrei, Ribeira Sacra and Ribeiro. Here you will still find Albariño, but it is the local grapes, unique to the area, that are of real interest; Godello, Treixadura, Dona Branca and Loureira. The style is not dissimilar to Rías Baixas – delicate and refreshing, but some have the most exquisite fruits. Sadly, most have a price to match.

Bizkaiko Txakolina Itsas Mendi 2009, 12.5%, €14.39A bracing, almost saline nose; lovely clean, salty, tangy citrus fruit, like a Muscadet with attitude. A delicious refreshing wine to drink with shellfish of all kinds. Stockists: Wines on the Green, Dawson Street; McCabes, Blackrock Foxrock; Red Island, Skerries; Cases Wine Warehouse, Galway.

Rías Baixas 2009 Martín Códax, Albariño, 12.5%, €15.85Martín Códax is one of the largest producers in Galicia, and can be relied upon to make classic easy-drinking Rías Baixas. This has very attractive plump pear and watermelon fruits, with a ripe touch. Perfect on its own as an aperitif or with fish. Stockists: Achesons Off-Licence, D12; Bin No9, D14; Daly's, Boyle, Co Roscommon; Kingdom Stores, Tralee; Egan's, Liscannor; Mitchells, Rathfarnham; Lilac Wines, Fairview; McCambridges, Galway; Michael's Wine, Mount Merrion; Next Door outlets nationwide; Nectar Wines, D18; O'Briens wines; O'Driscoll's, Cahirciveen; On the Grapevine, Dalkey; Redmonds, Ranelagh; Red Nose Wine, Clonmel.

Rías Baixas Terras Gauda O Rosal 2009, 12.5%, €20.99Fresh pointed citrus nose; very attractive mouth-watering green apple and pear fruits, with a strong zesty edge. This has good concentration, nice ripeness, and good length, too – a very classy wine. Stockists: The Wine Boutique, Dublin 4; Cellars, Naas Road; Jus de Vine, Portmarknock; Martins, Dublin 3; Redmonds, Ranelagh; Coasters, Limerick; Mulchays, Charleville, Co Cork; Matson, Bandon, Co Cork.

Gaba do Xil 2009, Valdeorras, 13.5%, €14.15Made from the Godello grape, this is an unusual but enjoyable wine. It has a floral nose with some lime zest, relatively rich and textured peaches and custard fruits on the palate, with an exotic touch. Finishes slightly bitter, but in an attractive way. Stockists: 64 Wine, Glasthule; Ardkeen, Waterford; Bin No9, Clonskeagh; The Kingdom Stores, Tralee; Mitchells, Rathfarnham; Michael's Wine, Mount Merrion; O'Briens wines.

TWO UNDER €12

Rías Baixas Pazo Serantellos 2008, 12.5%, €9.05A very pungent, almost Sauvignon nose at first, which then fades; lightly bruised red melon fruits, good acidity. A pleasant well-made wine. Stockists: Tesco

Arribes de Vettoria Crianza 2006, 13.5%, €10.95From a relatively unknown region of Spain, and made from the local Juan García grape variety, this oozes soft, ripe, easy dark fruits with a touch of spice. Supple and dangerously easy to knock back. Serve with grilled or barbecued red and white meats. Stockists: O'Briens

BEER OF THE WEEK

Quilmes, Argentina, 4.9%, €3.30 per 330cl bottleVery far removed from European lager, this has soft fluffy wheat flavours and some sweetish fruit.