Around the bens in Connemara

GO WALK:Get to the heart of the Twelve Bens via a relaxed route by taking the ridge around the head of Glencorbet running from small Benbaun to large Benbaun, writes TONY DOHERTY

THE RIDGE OF hills surrounding the upper basin of the Kylemore River in the northern section of the Twelve Bens is much less frequented than the formidable Glencoaghan Horseshoe on the southern side which is a “must do” route for walkers from all over Ireland.

But if you would like to get to the heart of the Twelve Bens by a more relaxed route, try the ridge around the head of Glencorbet running from a small Benbaun (477m) to a large Benbaun (725m), which is the highest peak in Co Galway.

Keep to the track leading into the glen for about 500m, then head up to your right as far as a fence, which is not suitable for crossing as the posts are weak. Walk westward until you come to the edge of a coniferous plantation.

Shimmy past the first few trees and you will find a point where the wire is low enough to cross without putting pressure on it and then cut diagonally uphill to spot height 392m, which overlooks Kylemore Lough and the great mountains of south Mayo, Mweelrea and Ben Gorm.

The first of the Benbauns is reached by crossing a boggy col from where there is an easy ascent. When you reach the summit drop down a short distance on the northern edge and you’ll get a great view of Kylemore Abbey and its lake.

A bare rocky spine leads up to Benbrack (582m). If you keep to its western side a grassy ramp makes for an easy route to the peak which is marked by a small cairn.

Apart from the nearby mountains, the view was circumscribed by the dense haze that comes with a southeasterly airflow in fine weather but, on a clear day, there are views to the western ridges of the Twelve Bens and out to the Connemara coastline.

The descent to the col at Maumnascalpa is straightforward once you keep to the main line of the spur.

Ahead, the miserable slope of Muckanaght (654m) – with its grim bands of greasy cliffs – is a barrier to progress around the top of the ridge. The only possible route that I could see was a steep and slimy gully on the east face which looked distinctly unpleasant, so I contoured over towards the col between Muckanaght and Benfree happy to be a wimp.

A slog up the grassy slopes of Benfree (638m) brought me in sight of the stony rump of Benbaun (725m), which presented no obstacles on the way to its triangulation pillar, the top of which has been smashed – a circumstance I’ve never encountered on any other summit in Ireland.

By now, the haze had been capped by a layer of cloud giving rise to a gloom that accentuated the starkness of the slopes of the Glencoaghan Horseshoe to the south.

THE EASIEST OPTION for your walk out is to drop down into the Kylemore valley from the col lying to the northeast of the summit in order to pick up the track which runs in as far as the plantation at the head of the glen.

The river could be a formidable obstacle during periods of heavy rain, as is evidenced by the width of the channel and the large bed load.

The bridge on the track at grid reference 790 561 was destroyed in a flood some years ago, but it is possible to cross at this point if the river volume is low.

If levels are high, I wouldn’t bother going as far as the bridge. Instead, cross as high up the valley as possible and work down the northern bank of the river until you pick up the track leading back to the car park.

Route Benbaun Ridge, Connemara, Co Galway

MapOrdnance Survey Discovery Series, Sheet 37.

Start/finishSmall clearing at the start of the track that leads into Glencorbet (grid reference 796 573).

Get thereFrom the N59 Letterfrack to Leenaun road turn south onto the R344 for 2km. Turn right onto a narrow road. Park on a clearing near houses 650 meters in from the R344.

TimeSeven hours.

Distance15km.

Total ascent1,050m.

SuitabilityTough walk. Bring map, rain gear and boots.