On your way skiing? Its pristine setting and colourful community make Geneva, in Switzerland, a city worth stopping in, writes Alice Ryan
IF YOUR IDEAL holiday entails rolling home at 5am after an all-you-can-drink pub crawl involving a greasy-haired local named Federico, turn back now. With its Armani-clad businessmen, smiling bike-riding families and waving policemen flying by on rollerblades, arriving in the Swiss city of Geneva is like landing in Pleasantville.
Utopia starts at Lake Geneva, the 580sq km body of water, called Lac Léman by the French, that dominates the identity of the city. The Jet d'Eau, a gigantic spurt of cascading water, reaches 140m into the air, shooting out of the lake, and the city appears to rise, Atlantis-like, from the water.
On a clear day the snow- covered Alps are a backdrop to behold, as Mont Blanc stands 4,808m over the ancient settlement. Marinas and lush trees add to the relaxing and peaceful walkway that borders the water. Besides strolling, you can rent bikes lakeside, and tour boats line the jetties, offering trips of different lengths and varying routes. In fact, water buses provide a useful means of transport, giving a Venetian feel.
Just a stroll from the water's edge, over Pont du Mont-Blanc, where the crystal-blue lake turns back into the River Rhône, is Geneva's old town. Winding cobbled streets and towering steps lead to the old buildings on a height and Cathédrale St Pierre, where French names mesh with Romanesque and Gothic architecture to remind you that you're in the heart of Europe.
Perched as good as new in the picturesque cathedral is the small chair of Jean Calvin, who founded Calvinism on Lake Geneva in the mid-16th century. Around the corner is a tiny house on winding Grande Rue, where the great philosopher Jean-Jacques Rousseau was born. You might even spot Sophia Loren or Kofi Annan, who both live in the area, ambling through the narrow streets of the old quarter.
Moving south, behind the old town lies the green area of Promenade des Bastions, by Place de Neuve. With oversized chequers and chess boards painted on the ground, it sees hordes of people swarm to the park at weekends, to play or to watch nail-biting games that can last for hours.
Wealth is a striking feature of Geneva, where shop windows are lined with Yves Saint Laurent shirts and Caviar House Prunier seafood. Lined up outside five-star hotels are Lamborghinis, Bugattis and other vehicles so flash you'd be forgiven for expecting James Bond to hop out of the next car.
God Save the Queen T-shirts on sale confirm the expat feel of the city, whose people mingle well with the international- organisation brigade.
The city is home to a UN duty station as well as to offices of the World Intellectual Property Organisation, United Nations Development Programme, International Labour Organisation and UN High Commissioner for Refugees. With a population made up of so many nationalities, numerous languages float into each other on the bustling streets.
Between speedboats lining the marinas, Ferraris flying by and young professionals sipping Chablis under fairy lights, it was three days before we saw a homeless person. Prostitutes, though? We saw plenty of them. In this utopian city of wealthy families and lakeside picnics, prostitution is just another industry. Not far from the lake, in the Paquis area, prostitutes circle street corners for most of the day. Prostitution is legal in Switzerland, with workers paying VAT and one helpful tourist website even asserting that "prices charged include all Swiss taxes".
The city, which has a small-town feel, is easy to navigate and beautiful to ramble in. With its corporate air, however, and a distinct lack of students, Geneva certainly doesn't have a raging nightlife. Instead, the city offers old-town strolling, beautiful scenery and a wholesome family atmosphere. In fine weather people lie out on beautiful greens, slipping in and out of the lake for a dip. Any moment now the von Trapp family are going to come climbing over the mountain in the distance, singing Edelweiss.
The old town's narrow streets and beautiful architecture provide an enjoyable alternative to the many lakeside activities, making Geneva an ideal spot for a relaxing, Federico-free weekend in a breathtaking setting.
Where to stay, where to eat and where to go
5 places to stay
Hôtel President Wilson. Quai Wilson 47, 00-41-22- 9066666. www.hotelpwilson.com. Impossible to miss, towering by the lake, this glamorous hotel exemplifies Geneva life. It sits in a prime position with views matched only by the hotel's prices. Rooms cost about 820 Swiss francs (€510) a night.
Hostelling International. 30 Rue Rothschild, 00-41-22- 7326260, www.hihostels.com. Students, backpackers and anybody else trying to avoid sky-high prices stays at this well-located hostel that is minutes from the lake. A night in a dorm cost about 30 Swiss francs (€19).
Hôtel Nash Ville. Rue de Berne 26, 00-41-22-7154600, www.nashvillegeneva.com. This comfortable, reasonably priced hotel is a good place to stay as long as you don't mind the disadvantages of staying on the edge of the red-light district. Rooms start at 195 Swiss francs (€123).
Hôtel Les Armures. Rue Puits-St-Pierre 1, 00-41-22- 3109172, www.hotel-les-armures.ch. Located in a beautiful old-town building a stone's throw from Cathédrale St Pierre. From about 600 Swiss francs (€380).
Grand Hôtel Kempinski Geneva. Quai du Mont-Blanc 19, 00-41-22-9089081, www.kempinski-geneva.com. Part of the luxurious Kempinski chain, this lakeside hotel is within walking distance of the town centre. One of the most striking buildings in the city. Rooms about 600 Swiss francs (€380) per night.
5 places to eat
Bain de Paquis. Quai du Mont-Blanc 30, 00-41-22- 7381616. One of the most talked-about restaurants in Geneva, this relaxed spot has good food and a great location - on a pier - at low prices. Famous for its plat du jour and its great evening fondue. Extremely busy at peak times.
Il Fornello Napolitano, Da Antonio. Rue de Lausanne 52, 00-41-22-7387078. Having found Da Antonio's, it is next to impossible to eat anywhere else. Mouth-watering pizza, with ingredients so fresh and a taste so authentically Italian that it is not surprising to see the pizza oven in the corner of the restaurant.
Various restaurants, Rue de Chaponnière. Located near the Cornavin train station and not far from the lake, Rue de Chaponnière is a good spot if you're not sure what to eat. Greek, Chinese, African, Indian, Tex-Mex and Italian restaurants, many with outdoor areas, line the street.
Café du Soleil. 6 Place du Petit-Saconnex, 00-41-22- 7333417, www.cafedusoleil.ch. Famous for its traditional Swiss cuisine, including fondue, this restaurant is almost 400 years old. Be warned, though: it does not accept credit cards.
Tse Yang. Quai du Mont- Blanc 19, 00-41-22-7325081. One of the most famous Asian restaurants in the city, this Chinese place is a few steps from the water, with extraordinary views of the lake.
5 places to go
Espace Rousseau. 40 Grand'Rue 00-41-22-3101028, www.espace-rousseau.ch.
The birthplace of Jean-Jacques Rousseau. An audiovisual tour takes place in the philosopher's house and explains his life and work.
Bike ride by the lake. Geneve Roule (Arcade Montbrillant 17, 00-41-22-7401343, www.geneveroule.ch), which encourages non-polluting transport, offers bike rental and in summer months loans bikes for free. The walkway bordering the lake is a beautiful starting point.
Palais des Nations. 14 Avenue de la Paix, 00-41-22- 9174896, www.unog.ch. Guided tours are available inside the duty station of the UN. Definitely worth a look.
Swimming. A swimsuit is essential in Geneva. There are a few man-made stone beaches, but a better choice are the beautiful inlets and large rocks that line the lake.
The old town. With its narrow alleys and towering buildings, a stroll is the best way to take in the old town's historic beauty. In a mosaic archway, old cannons can be seen up close, and on a height the beautiful cathedral is a highlight of the quarter.
Hot spot
La Terrasse. Quai du Mont-Blanc 31, 00-41-78- 6911378, www.laterrasse.ch. Open only during the summer, this is a Genevan institution. The bar gets so busy that people take their drinks to the neighbouring green areas.
Where to shop
Part of Geneva's appeal is the glamorous and expensive shops lining the city's elegant streets. Extravagant shopping takes place in the Rues Basses area, between Rue du Rhône and Rue du Marché, where names such as Louis Vuitton, Hermès and the main department stores, such as Bon Génie and Globus, can be found. Manor, another all-purpose department store, on Rue Cornavin, is great for the obligatory Swiss chocolate and army-knife presents. The city is, of course, renowned for its watches, and a number of famous horologists are located here, including Swatch and James Bond's favourite, Omega.
Go There
Air Lingus (www.aerlingus.com) flies to Geneva from Dublin and Cork. Swiss International Air Lines (www.swiss.com) flies from Dublin to Geneva via Zurich.