Israel's seven million people include 18,000 same-sex families. Now this brash, hip and liberal city is a prime destination for gay tourists, writes Louise Williams
'THE ONLY CONFLICT we have here in Tel Aviv is whether to go to the beach or not," says Yuval Egertt, director of the city's municipal gay centre, with a smile.
Tel Avivians like to refer to their city as "the bubble", sealed off from the Israeli-Palestinian conflict as well as from the increasingly religious country that surrounds them.
Tel Aviv is full of surprises; it's a brash, hip and liberal city, packed to the gills with good restaurants and intriguing architecture and bursting with underground and mainstream artistic life.
Take a stroll down the city's boulevards to see the smooth, clean lines of Tel Aviv's thousands of Bauhaus apartment blocks. Check out the heaving markets for fresh fruit or local crafts, or head to the shopping area around Sheinkin Street for posing, purchasing and taking in the vibrant ethnic mix that makes up Israel today.
But the first place to get stuck into in Tel Aviv has to be the beach. From the high-rise blocks of the financial district to the huddled flat roofs of the Yemeni quarter, the city has been built with the coast as its focal point. Boulevards and side streets all lead towards the sand and the waves.
There are public beaches and private stretches, some packed, others quieter, and the unofficial gay beach is by the Hilton hotel. The nearby park is often used for cruising, though it is currently closed. Hilton beach was pretty chilled and mixed when I was there. Pack your aviator shades and Hawaiian shorts and stock up on wooden paddles and a ball to play kadima, the beach game loved by all Israelis, and you'll fit right in.
If you get hungry, the standard beach food in Israel is hummus washed down with a beer - Heineken is standard, local beer Maccabi is good or ask for Taybeh, a Palestinian-brewed beer, if you feel like sticking your neck out.
Tel Aviv is pushing hard to raise its profile as a gay tourist destination, and next year it will be showcasing its attractions at the World Outgames, in Copenhagen.
"Jerusalem is the capital of the Jewish world, Tel Aviv is the capital of the Israeli world," says city councillor Etai Pinkas. "Jerusalem is supposed to be the city of peace. In reality now it's the city of war. Tel Aviv hasn't had bombs for years. You can see for yourself the nightlife, the shopping opportunities. It's a fun place to hang out."
Pinkas is also an adviser on gay issues to Tel Aviv's mayor. He has been the prime mover behind the construction of Israel's first monument to gay victims of the Holocaust, inspired by a similar monument he saw in Amsterdam last year.
It will be placed right in front of Tel Aviv's municipal gay centre - the only centre of its kind in the world to be fully funded and supported by its city. It's a cool modern white building in the middle of the green shady Gan Meir park in central Tel Aviv, and it offers an exhibition space, theatre and cinema space, along with a cafe.
The centennial celebration of Tel Aviv's founding is coming up in 2009, and there are lots of cultural events planned - opera, theatre and dance - as well as plenty of parties.
And it's the bars and partying that seem to be the main draw for tourists. Rashid, from London, is on his 10th trip to the city. He usually combines a few nights of partying with a trip to the desert. "This is paradise. The guys are gorgeous here," he says. "My opinion is that Israelis are on the higher end of good looks," says Pinkas in agreement, without a hint of irony.
Where religious Jerusalemites cover up, Tel Avivians love to flaunt - no muscle definition is too slight for display, not to mention belly buttons, tattoos and piercings.
The results sometimes leave you cold; it's not a society that encourages eye contact, and this endless posturing gets a little tiresome. Chit-chat is not Israelis' best talent, either; prepare for abrupt service by staff who will go a long way not to look you in the eye, and you'll have to work hard to get a friendly reception in shops or museums.
Israelis like to compare themselves to prickly pears - spiky on the outside, sweet and tender on the inside - but sometimes that metaphor just seems an excuse for rudeness.
When it comes to family, however, this is a society in which everything turns around the family unit. "When I came out to my mother the first thing she said was 'What about my grandchildren?'," says gay municipal director Yuval Egertt. "I wanted to have children myself, so I had a child when I was single, with a female friend. It's about sharing - not being alone, not being selfish. But most importantly you can trace it back to the Holocaust. My grandfather came from a family of 14; he is the only one who survived."
There are 18,000 same-sex families in Israel - a high proportion for a population of just over seven million.
All in all, Tel Aviv is a fantastic destination. If you tire of all the beautiful people, you can always take yourself off to Jerusalem for the religious sites, to the Dead Sea for a salty dip or to Eilat to swim in the Red Sea.
Securitywise, it's sensible to check the news in the weeks before leaving. You'll have to get used to having your bag checked outside shops, bars and restaurants, and taking the bus around the country can be a little nerve-racking. Don't wear combats or any army-style clothes, as this is a seriously militarised society. Be prepared for a lot of quizzing about your background at Ben Gurion International Airport, coming in and out of the country: it can take a few hours, so leave plenty of time to spare.
The best price for flights to Tel Aviv at present is with bmi, whose sale runs until the end of the month. Fares via London are from €385, www.flybmi.com. The next best value is Air France via Paris with fares from €415, www.airfrance.ie. Malev Hungarian Airlines has fares from €528 via Budapest, www.malev.com. The Israeli national carrier El Al has flights from Heathrow, www.elal.co.il, from £343 (€435).
Where to stay
Hotel Montefiore.36 Montefiore Street, 00-972-2-6221111, www.montefiorehotel.com/en/. A boutique hotel in a renovated 1920s building at a busy spot in the old port, with a deck overlooking the water.
Nina Cafe Suites Hotel.29 Shabazi Street, Neve Tzedek, 00-972-52-5084141, www.ninacafehotel.com. A quiet and luxurious boutique hotel with airy apartments and studio rooms in Tel Aviv's "bohemian village" area. It's 20 minutes' drive from the airport and 10 minutes' walk to the beach. Its eponymous cafe across the street is perfect for breakfast.
Hilton Tel Aviv Hotel.Independence Park, 00-972-3-5202222, www.hilton.co.uk/telaviv. An enormous landmark hotel right on the beach and popular with gay tourists. Rooms are being renovated between November and April. The pool will also be closed between February 2nd and March 13th next year for maintenance.
Where to eat
The Banana Beach Cafeis good for burgers, Gordo offers seafood and cocktails at Gordon Beach and Mezitzim is open 24 hours with good grub at Metzitzim Beach, to the south of the city.
Manta Ray,at Alma Beach, has great seafood and amazing meze - traditional Middle Eastern appetisers.
Benjamin Siegel,on the corner of Allenby Street (00-972-3-5166224) and the beach, does tricks with fondue cocktails and a boardwalk vibe. Pacific Bistro and Sushi restaurant (Crowne Plaza Hotel, 145 Hayarkon Street, 00-972-3-5201111) has unusual dishes, all cooked to kosher standards.
My favourite Tel Aviv restaurant is Susanna's(Shabazzi 9, 00-972-3- 5177580). It provides a great excuse to visit the relatively undiscovered Neve Tzedek, the first Jewish neighbourhood (founded in 1877). Today Neve Tzedek is a funky, gentrified area with low-slung villas housing studios, boutiques, cafes and the Suzanne Dellal dance centre, home to Bat Sheva - a seriously good national dance company. Susanna's is hectic, and the food is homey, with Cornish hen and spicy aubergine dishes and a great crowd.
Bars and clubs
Evita's. 31 Yavne Street, 00-972-3-5669559. This is the gay bar in Tel Aviv, great for meeting tourists and locals. It has something going on almost every day of the week, with drag night on Tuesdays (remember Dana International?). Located in an upcoming area of Tel Aviv, this bar and coffee lounge also serves food.
Femme Fatale. 19-21 Pyjoto Street, 00-972-52-6002182. Situated not far from Rothschild Boulevard, the Femme Fatale is a lively lesbian bar that aims itself at a more mature crowd and has mixed nights for gays and lesbians.
Theatre Club. 10 Jerusalem, Avenue, Jaffa, 00-972-23- 5184715. This club features drag performances, Greek parties and a variety of beach-themed cocktails.
Minus One. Nahalat Binyamin 52 and Rothschild, 00-972-52-6606948. This is the latest party haunt on the gay scene. It looks like an underground parking garage.
Culture
Many galleries and museums close at about 2pm on Fridays and open again on Sundays.
Tel Aviv Museum of Art. 27 Shaul Hamelech Boulevard, 00-972-3-6077020, www.tamuseum.com. This gallery features 20th-century Israeli artworks and major Jewish-American and European artists. It offers guided tours in English.
Beth Hatefutsoth: the Nahum Goldmann Museum of the Jewish Diaspora. Tel Aviv University Campus, Klausner Street, 00-972-3-7457800, www.bh.org.il. This is one of the biggest museums of its type in the world.