Cummeengeera, Co Kerry;a memorable challenge that in poor conditions will test even the most experienced walker, writes JOHN G O'DWYER
SO YOU’VE DONE Carrauntoohil, Mweelrea and Lugnaquillia. You have ticked off the Brandon arete, the Glencoaghan horseshoe and the Reeks ridge. But now a little voice is murmuring: what next? Silencing these whispers requires a rewarding challenge somewhere in Ireland, but you know you aren’t yet ready for all the scarifying jiggery-pokery that goes with ropes and vertical routes.
In these circumstances you can find salvation in the improbable form of a little-known circuit on the Beara Peninsula that never strays above 600m and presents almost no unavoidable rocky scrambles. Yet this traverse through the empty lands above the Cummeengeera Valley is by any standards a memorable challenge that in poor conditions will test the resources of even the most experienced walker.
Situated amid one of Ireland’s last great wilderness landscapes, this circuit begins at a small parking place provided by the local farmer – the use of which costs €4 per walker.
From here go up a lane directly opposite the car park and head uphill over uneven terrain while keeping to the right of a stream. When the stream peters out head boldly up steep ground towards a low point on the skyline that is actually a gap between the southern extremity of Knocknaveacal Ridge and Tooth Mountain.
Here you swing left and have a choice. In good weather you will most likely find the summit of Tooth irresistible and strike upwards over the rock benches, which provide enjoyable but avoidable scrambling opportunities before you reach the difficult-to-identity summit.
Zigzagging through the benches makes this section of the route tricky to navigate in mist, and you may wish instead to follow a fence that offers a handrail to the right of the summit towards your next objective. Either way, the going gets easier when you descend from Tooth to a wide coll and clamber up to the Coomacloghane trig point.
The drop from here is the steepest so far, with the almost-vertical rock benches now lying resolutely at right angles to the route providing plenty of excitement. If you detest such scrambling it is best to move a little to the left on the Cummeengeera side of the ridge for easier going.
From the gap below Coomacloghane there is short, steepish ascent to Eskatarriff Ridge, and then it is easier going to the 600m summit, which is marked by a tiny cairn that in good weather makes an ideal lunch stop.
Now the navigational difficulties ease. Beyond Eskatarriff, great cliffs to the left provide an invaluable guide in mist, while in clear weather there are spectacular views into the rocky fastness of the Cummeengeera. The going is now mostly downhill, leading over the pinnacle of Bireca and onwards until the beginning of the pull up Lackabane.
This is the hardest labour of the day, although the ground conditions are generally good. Your reward is entry into a wondrous world of beguiling mountains and quicksilver seas, encompassing Hungry Hill, Kenmare Bay, Macgillycuddy’s Reeks and the great sweep of the southern ocean.
It is an easy walk from Lackabane to Curraghraaque, but from here precise navigation is required to identify the correct ridge for descent, which runs roughly northeast and is in places both steep and narrow. Eventually the gradient eases and broadens to a wide gap.
Don’t reascend, however, but instead swing left and descend steeply. The terrain is now rough and tedious, with the best ground lying to the right of a fast-flowing stream. When you reach the valley floor, cross the stream near a ruined building and head diagonally left over level but boggy ground to a bridge over a river.
From here a track leads the short distance to your parking place.
Getting thereFrom the Kerry village of Lauragh take the R571 west towards Ardgroom for just over a kilometre. Turn left for Glanmore Lake and continue a short distance before going right along the narrow cul-de-sac that leads into Cummeengeera. Park on the left, just beyond a roadside bungalow.
SuitabilityA tough walk that requires good navigation skills in mist and a considerable degree of fitness. The option of escaping into Cummeengeera is not recommended. In difficulty, the only viable option is to retreat or continue.
TimeAt least six hours.
MapOrdnance Survey Ireland Discovery Series sheet 84.
AccommodationThe three-star Kenmare Bay Hotel (064-6679300, kenmarebay hotel.com), about 30 minutes' drive from Cummeengeera. Details of hospitality in the area are available from Killarney tourist office, 064-6631633.