Go ItalyAndrea Palladio gave the world a new style of neoclassical architecture with the villas he designed in Italy, 500 years ago. They're worth visiting, writes Desmond 0'Grady
VENETIAN VILLAS are in the spotlight, because celebrations of the 500th anniversary of the birth of Andrea Palladio began on September 20th. Until January a major exhibition on the architect will be held in Vicenza, then move to London and, later, the US.
Palladio, the son of a mill owner, initially was a stonemason; later, with villas and other buildings of classic poise and sobriety, he became the most famous architect of his day.
Some of his designs, such as for Villa Barbaro, at Maser, were decorated by leading contemporary artists, including Veronese. Only a baker's dozen were competed under Palladio, who pushed his costs too high for many who commissioned him. As many again were completed by others. Palladio's name can be linked to about 30 villas, but there are more than 4,000 extant villas and castles in his native Veneto region and adjacent Friuli, as well as scores of castles. Many are noteworthy.
Increasingly, tourists not only visit the villas but lodge in those that provide accommodation, with full board or BB. In many cases they are no more expensive than a modest hotel in Venice. Some are used as a base to visit the city.
Most of the villas were built after Venice realised days were numbered for its maritime empire, which spread down the coast of what is now Croatia to the eastern Mediterranean. The reason was that the "Turks" contested that territory, and, moreover, the discovery of America, in 1492, switched trade towards the Atlantic.
Before the 15th century Venetians were not allowed to invest in the hinterland. But then Venice saw the need to expand towards what are now Austria and Slovenia. In this territory today there is a melange of Germanic and Italic influences, as well as the distinctive Friulian culture.
Venice invested its accumulated wealth in villas, castles and churches in this area. The castles were built on the hills and the villas on the plains. Some villas were simply holiday homes, such as those along the Brenta Canal from Venice to Padua. Others were hunting lodges or working farms. Often, later generations transformed them into pleasure lodges.
Some villas seem to be town houses built in the countryside - but with an important difference, because, unlike in Venice, they had space for gardens. The villas have a pleasing inside- outside feel, with light-filled rooms leading to a formal garden, often with statues of mythological figures, which gives on to a park and, in some cases, to fields. They are havens of peace in which formality is accompanied by a light touch. (Outside, traffic tends to be congested, because in recent years this area, close to eastern Europe, has had an economic boom.)
Descendants of the original owners still live in some of the villas. But whoever owns them now faces huge upkeep problems. As a result many have opened their properties for visits, weddings or other events or lodging.
Architectural treasures: some of Palladio's creations
La Rotonda
Via della Rotonda 45, Vicenza, 00-39-049-8790879
Strictly known as Villa Almerico Capra Valmarana, this is one of Palladio's masterpieces. Its fame has been increased by its use in films, such as Joseph Losey's Don Giovanni. Built as a retirement home for a cleric, it is surrounded by an English garden, a United Nations World Heritage site. No accommodation.
Villa Barbaro
Via Cornuda 7, Maser, 00-39-0423-923004, www.villadimaser.it
This Palladian masterpiece is perfectly preserved. Unusually, it is not built on a plain or topping a rise but is set on the side of a hill. It was built for Palladio's patron, Daniele Barbaro, an expert on ancient architecture. It has paintings by Paolo Veronese and others, sculptures and stucco work. No accommodation.
Villa Giustinian
Via Giustinian 11, Portobuffolé, 00-39-0422-850244, www.villagiustinian.it
Fifteen years ago the owner, Giannino Berto, turned the 16th-century villa into a hotel. It has since established an atmosphere of family hospitality: Berto talks entertainingly, there is a good swimming pool in the pleasant grounds, and the villa has an excellent restaurant that is especially good for seafood (a three-course meal costs about €40 before wine). Double room from €138; suite from €300; single €90.
Montecchia Castle
Via Montecchia 16, Selvazzano Dentro, 00-39-049-637294, www.lamontecchia.it
A castle and hunting lodge with fine views over the rolling countryside near Padua. The lodge has just been returned to its original splendour. The complex produces prize-winning wines and is flanked by a golf course with a swimming pool. Maresciallo suite €240, minimum stay two nights. An apartment for four, on the property, costs €140 a night, minimum seven nights. Recommended restaurant La Montecchia. In a former tobacco factory next to the castle, this restaurant (which closes on Mondays and Tuesdays) specialises in rabbit baked in its own juices. A three-course meal costs about €55.
Villa Gallici Deciani
Via Gallici 27, Cassacco, 00-39-0432-851487, www.deciani.it
Badly damaged in the second World War, this 17th-century villa was fully restored only in 1990. Open for receptions, weddings, conventions, concerts and accommodation. Double rooms about €120; €100 if used as single. Minimum three nights. Recommended restaurant Osteria di Villafredda. Loneriacco di Tarcento, 00-39-0432-792153, www.villafredda.com. Ten minutes by car from Villa Gallica Deciani, this old farmhouse with fine views serves traditional local cuisine. Try the pork fillet with herbs. €25-€30.
Villa Pisani
Via Doge Pisani 7, Stra, 00-39-049-502270, www.villapisani.beniculturali.it
Built as the summer residence of a doge of Venice, Alvise Pisani, this stands on the Brenta Canal. Decorated by Tiepolo and others, it has a spacious garden that includes a maze, a theatre, fish ponds, a waterway and what seems to be another palace but, in fact, is the facade of the stables. It was bought by Napoleon in 1807 but reacquired by the Italian state. A momentous meeting between Hitler and Mussolini took place here in 1943. Now a museum. No acccomodation.
Villa Manin
Piazza Manin 10, Passariano, Codroipo, 00-39-0432-821211
Built for the last doge of Venice, Ludovico Manin, this building is as imposing as Villa Pisani. It is now a museum of contemporary art, which sometimes jars with the setting. Like Villa Pisani, Villa Manin is a state property that does not provide accommodation.
Villa Widmann Borletti
Piazza Marconi 63, Bagnoli di Sopra, 00-39-049-5380006
A 17th-century villa built over what used to be Benedictine monastery, this working farm and vineyard grows most of the food and wine served in its restaurant, which specialises in meat dishes. Its beautiful garden has a theatre that was used by the renowned 18th-century Venetian playwright Carlo Goldoni during his summer vacations at the villa. Offers bed and breakfast.
Strassoldo Castle
Via dei Castelli 25, Strassoldo, 00-39-0431-93217, www.castellodistrassoldo.it
In a medieval village, adjacent to a spacious park, this private dwelling with guest rooms has been lived in by the same family - who can plausibly trace their origins back to Charlemagne - for more than 1,000 years. They offer bed and breakfast. Expect to pay €80 for a single room, €135 for a double and €190 for a suite. Recommended restaurant A 10-minute walk from the guest house, Agriturismo San Gallo (00-39-0431-93039) is a farm restaurant surrounded by vineyards. Try the home-made salami and the pasta of the day. A three-course meal costs about €24. Open Thursday evenings, then all day Friday, Saturday and Sunday.
Duino Castle
Via Castello di Duino 32, Duino Aurisina, 00-39-040-208120, www.castellodiduino.it
On a rocky spur overlooking the sea, this castle is owned by the Germanic-Italian Thurns and Taxis family, who for more than three centuries had a monopoly on the postal services in Germany, Austria, Italy, Hungary and The Netherlands (and bequeathed the world the word "taxi"). It is still inhabited by the family and maintains its tradition as a cultural centre - it was frequented by Johann Strauss, Franz Liszt and the German poet Rainer Maria Rilke. No accomodation.
Miramare Castle
Viale Miramare 1, Trieste, 00-39-040-224143, www.castello-miramare.it
Overlooking the sea on the outskirts of the cosmopolitan city of Trieste, this castle was the residence of the Habsburg prince Maximilian, who, in the 19th century, sailed from here to become emperor of Mexico, where he met his death. It has an interesting museum of his life. No accomodation.
• For information on the Veneto and Friuli regions, see www.turismofvg.it and www.veneto.to
• For information on hospitality in historic villas and castles, see www.villevenetecastelli.com